I need to repair a flu in a fireplace. It is a Donley Brothers flu stamped #42. It is 36″ x 5″. There is currently a gas insert. It has a Poker controller. The valve plate was completely off the flu opening and wedged behind the metal shroud and the firebrick with the controller still on it. There does not seem to be anything to hold the valve plate up. No dogears at the bottom, no grove to hold it in place. Is it possible that I need to disconnet the valve plate from the controller and slide the valve plate up in the flu and have it sitting over the opening inside the chimmney.
This is a very serious gas issue, so lets not guess an hope that things are OK or just fine.
First an for-most you need to have a professional chimney contractor make a service call to your home, to determine what is going on here and to “repair it, before” using this fireplace again!
I believe what your referring to as “the flue”, is what is really called a damper. And yes Donley does makes these. Now you also mentioned “gas insert” and in most cases these need to be vented in very specific manner and again according to the Manufacture instruction. “IF” there are gas logs in the firebox, I will assume the Manufacture safety “damper clip” was not installed properly when the gas logs were installed as the manufactures instructions would have detailed. It is time to call in a pro, as dealing with gas is always a very serious concern for you and your family.
To find a reputable Chimney Sweep in your area, use this link to the National Chimney Sweep Guild locator: http://www.ncsg.org/
Also be sure to go online and read all of their customer reviews from Google, BBB and AngiesList.
. . . Gas fire place issue are alway best to serviced by the pro’s
. . . always!
Clay Lamb author of:
http://www.AsktheChimneySweep.com – Youtube Educational Videos
http://www.FireplaceandChimneySupply.com – Professional grade Chimney products
http://www.HomeContractorsHQ.com – Contractor Coaching Podcast
http://www.AmChimney.com – GM @ American Chimney Sweep Cincinnati, OH
We bought our home in July 2015 in Dayton, OH, which had the roof replaced in April, 2015. We’ve noticed that both chimneys have been leaking/progressively getting worse. Leaking occurs only during raining (the more rain, the worse it leaks). We’ve had the roofer out at least four times, and now he states that it’s not his problem (that we need to have a chimney sweep fix the issue). First chimney sweep (the one who did $4000 work supposedly fixing one of them!) stated that nothing is wrong with either except for maybe flashing. Second one wants to seal brick, crown coat & install SS liner in ONE of them for $2,500! Additional roofers vary in opinion from replacing flashing for $2,000 (with uncertainty that this will remedy problem) to ‘just seal brick & crown coat’. I’m at the point of buying a harness & hook latter and doing both the flashing and chimney sealing myself. My questions are: Are there any decent professionals in our area who can actually diagnose & fix the problem, and if not, can I buy the ChimneySaver products to do it myself.
Michelle, Since you have already had a number of different voices in your Leaky Chimney issue, might I suggest to your, considering paying for a (controlled water-testing) appointment. We do this with two men, both using phones and Walkie Talkies.
-Starting at ground level or possible even in the basement close to the base of the chimney, doing a very slow ground and brick water soaking from the outside.
-And moving and with continued water soaking up the chimney chase, if it seems appropriated, they might consider doing the right or left side first, at “each level” with continued checking for water entry from inside the home.
Moving up chimney chase and observing both inside the fireplace as well as observing possible ceiling concerns, again with the outside man soaking the corbelling areas, also often referred to as the shoulders or hips of the chimney
-Next with a man on the inside of the attic space with a very bright light, I would have the outside man thoroughly soaking the roof flashing,again one side at a time start at the lowest levels while trying to introduce soaking water all around the flashing at this level remember, don’t soak the bricks above as of yet.
-After the entire flashing system has been soaked and eliminates, I would then soak the upper chimney brick chase very slowly, “not the entire chimney but one brick row or what are call brick courses at a time.
-I would then soak the entire “chimney top”, cap or crown, as it is often referred to. Longer Soaking times can be your friend during this water testing process
-Please note water can could also be entering much further up away from the chimney, and possibly working its way down to your chimney chase. This “MIGHT BE” causing everyone involved, to say it is the chimney leaking when in actuality it could be attic roof vents, popped roofing nails or plumbing stack vent pipe issues.
Note: For two men about 4 man hours of work, not see this job or the degree of difficulty, I would think this might cost $400-$700.
Allow me to try and address your two questions:
Q. Are there any decent professionals in our area who can actually diagnose & fix the problem?
A. Yes, I only know of one gentleman Dayton area that I might suggest and that is Ken who operates Abby Roads Chimney Sweep. Whoever you allow to your home check their BBB, AngiesList and Google reviews.
Q. Can I buy the ChimneySaver products, to do it myself?
Yes you can, as well as many others, I also have an E-store http://www.FireplaceandChimneySupply.com
I would also suggest using Solvent based VOC compliant water repellent products because it penetrated deeper into the masonry surface and often will penetrate through other water repellents products that might have been applied earlier.
Here are a few videos that might help you.
Chimney Water Problems – Don’t Call a Roofer!
Problems with Corbeling Slopes
Leaky Chimney Podcast
Signs of Water Problems
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